Let op! Als je net begonnen bent met boulderen dan duurt het lang voordat je vingers gewend zijn aan de belasting, daarnaast train je je vingers ook al door te boulderen. Wij raden hangtraining alleen aan voor ervaren klimmers die gebrek aan vingerkracht hebben.

Ga je hangtraining doen, doe dat dan niet aan het einde van een (harde) bouldersessie om blessures te voorkomen.

Van beastmaker.com:

 

You essentially have two main methods of training finger strength:

Max hangs of around 10 seconds duration with lots of rest between each hang.

Repeaters of around 7 seconds duration, with short rests, in a set of 5 or 6 hangs.

 

Here are a couple of example workouts:

Repeaters

Choose a hold/grip type that you feel needs improving.

– Hang for 7 seconds, rest for 3.
– Repeat 6 times.
– Rest for 3 mins
– Choose another hold type and repeat…

At first you may only want to train a few grip types, but as you progress you can add more and more to the mix.

Repeaters focus a little more on the longer end of strength  – towards strength endurance. But potentially they are also a great way of developing maximum strength due to the sustained time of contraction of the muscles in the forearm.

Maximum Hangs

Choose a hold/grip type that you feel needs improving.

– Hang for 10/12 seconds
– Rest for 3-5 mins – until you feel totally recovered
– Repeat 3-5 times
– Choose another hold type and repeat…

As with repeaters, you should start out with minimal grip types, but add to it over time. Be very careful not to over do it tho. We wouldn’t recommend more than 2 sessions per week on the fingerboard.

Max hangs focus on top end strength. They tend to work by improving neuromuscular connections in your muscles, allowing them to work fast and efficiently, effectively making the most out of their potential strength.

It is a good idea to cycle between Repeaters and Max hangs to vary the training stimulus on your body.

 

As you improve you can mix up the exercises. To make things harder you can:
– Add weight (no more than 2kg at a time)
– Hang for longer
– Rest less
– Use smaller holds
– Use fewer fingers
– Use 1 arm

The opposites apply for making things easier.